|
NOCE News:// Spring 2006
Dear
Friends of the New Orleans Cooking Experience,
Spring is here in New Orleans and we’re enjoying wonderful Pontchatoula
strawberries and looking forward to tasting some Creole tomatoes. In
the meantime we are savoring the oysters and complaining about
the expensive crawfish.
I thought this was a good time to bring you up to date on both
NOCE and the region’s
recovery from the storm, or “The Thing” as one of our
Times-Picayune columnists calls it.
New Orleans and the surrounding area:
We have a lot going on, and at the same time not enough going on.
Mardi Gras was a truly uplifting event for all of us. Families and
friends, who hadn’t seen each other since the storm, got together to enjoy
the nice weather and the spectacle. Many of the displaced also returned
home to enjoy our annual ritual, if only for a few days. There was much
laughter, many tears and the most important thing of all: the telling of
our stories. “How did you do?” is always
the first order of business.
I live on the beginning of the parade route and Sunday the entire
neutral ground (our word for median) was filled beyond capacity
with families, neighbors and friends laughing, barbecuing and having
reunions…and, of course, catching
lots of beads. After nearly six months of strife and sadness,
it was a great release to have this moment of normalcy in our lives
before returning to the enormous challenge of rebuilding our world.
Some days it seems as if we take one step forward and two steps
back. On
other days it is the reverse and we rejoice in our small victories.
Thousands and thousands of our residents are caught in the FEMA/SBA/Corps
of Engineers/Insurance Company/telephone company/electric company dance of confusion. It
is truly ground hog day everyday. People have FEMA trailers in their
yards, but no keys. People fax and deliver their applications to FEMA and
SBA seven, eight, nine times and on the tenth time no one can find it and they
are told to send it again. People who want to rebuild are hesitant because
they don’t have the new flood maps – which were promised in January,
then in March and now may not arrive until September. If
they rebuild and the maps come out stating that they need to be
two inches higher, they will not be able to get any insurance.
Last week, the Army Corps of Engineers – for the first time before a
U.S. Senate subcommittee – acknowledged that the catastrophe was caused
by “design failure” – not by Hurricane Katrina. So
it is now official that the drowning of New Orleans and St. Bernard
Parish is the largest engineering failure in the history of the
United States.
We love and hate the trash at the same time. It’s pretty amazing
to see the entire contents of people’s lives, including their walls and
kitchen cabinets, out on the street. On the other hand it signifies that
the owners have declared they have returned and have begun the process of rebuilding. Every
time the detritus of one family’s former life is removed, it means they
are restarting their life. When suddenly three more houses on the block
put their “stuff” out on the street, it is another
big mess to clean up, but the significance is not lost on us.
We are blessed with the most wonderful volunteers. There are old
people, college students, families and friends coming and going everyday. People
are giving up their vacations and their spring breaks to help us. My favorite
story is the “hippie tent” in St. Bernard Parish. As far as
I know, no one knows who they are, or where they come from. They erected
these big tents in St. Bernard and serve three meals a day and offer hot showers
for the residents. They’ve been there since at least November. St.
Bernard Parish is a very conservative community of people who have lived there
for generations. And, they’re not exactly the kind of people who
bonded with hippies – either in the 60s or now. So it is both amusing
and touching to see how the community has embraced this group. They even
had their own marching krewe in St. Bernard’s one lovely
Mardi Gras parade.
I want to say one more thing about the people of New York City. There
is a special bond that has emerged. Perhaps it is because they alone can
truly share and understand our emotions and our wounds. But, they have
been a constant presence here – helping small businesses organize, sending
volunteers and equipment, putting on fund-raising events, coming as tourists,
etc. Even down to the fact that they flooded the Empire State Building
in purple, green and gold lights for Mardi Gras.
Daily life is still strange. It is also often sad and always
confusing. We
have a very long way to go. Everyone has good days and bad days. So
much is gone and yet so much is here or coming back. It sometimes takes
us twice a long to get simple daily chores done since “The Thing”,
and everyone is busy all the time. We are fighting among ourselves about
important things and stupid things, but it is like family fights – the
love is still there. After all, it’s senseless to complain
about the fact that some electric company from out of town completely
topped out a hundred year old oak tree in front of your house,
when other people are still trying to get electricity.
We still don’t have flood maps, we are having an election, we can’t
wait for Jazz Fest, the levees and flood walls aren’t rebuilt yet, hurricane
season starts in June and everybody wants everyone to come back – including
more of our visitors.
Life at NOCE
We are all so happy to be open. To share the gift
of New Orleans food with both local guests and visitors is a
great pleasure for all of us.
Jane has finally returned from North Carolina, so we are completely
whole again. She
is living in a great old house in Mid-City that did not flood while she and her
husband try to figure out what to do about their home in Lakeview/Gentilly. They
are among those waiting for the flood maps.
The House on Bayou Road looks beautiful – although we still
miss the old barn and the plants in the garden are a bit smaller.
Frank Brigtsen will be in New York on May 8th to participate in
the James Beard Foundation Awards celebrating “New Orleans: a Culinary Legacy”. Poppy
is just back from a Miami Slow Food presentation about preserving New Orleans
food history and she is still working to help our food producers and restaurants. Chiqui
is teaching, doing some catering and helping out in some of the family businesses. Michael,
who has a second life as a tour guide, has been doing some cruising and touring,
as well as some teaching. Susan is still in Baton Rouge,
but commuting into New Orleans to teach.
We are putting together a terrific schedule for our weekly Thursday
night “Great
Chefs Summer Series”. We hope to have Tory McPhail of Commander’s
Palace and Michelle McRaney from Mr. B’s Bistro back again. And,
we are hopeful that Ross Eirich of Galatoire’s and Anton Schulte of La
Petite Grocery will join us as well. Frank Brigtsen, who will teach several
of the series classes, has also invited Leah Chase to join us as well. We
hope to have a schedule out in the next several weeks.
Thank you so very much for all of your support and good wishes. It means
a lot to all of us to hear from you. I hope you try
and enjoy the recipes.
All best wishes,
Judy
RECIPES FROM NOCE:
We have selected some great recipes for you – a combination of
old and new, Cajun and Creole. To celebrate spring we are including Poppy’s
fabulous Chicken Sauce Piquante recipe. Although this is a Cajun dish,
it starts off a little like a Creole sauce. Please do not think of shrimp
floating in spaghetti sauce. This is the real thing and as Poppy says, “It’s
a foxy, russet brown”. The “piquante” part gives
it a sharp Cajun “bite” that makes you want to have
a second serving.
We hope you also enjoy Frank’s Seafood Jambalaya. It’s a Cajun
dish and this recipe is unbelievable. For your information, jambalaya was
not served much in New Orleans before Paul Prudhomme introduced the city to joys
the Cajun cooking. Today our younger generations think jambalaya
has always been on New Orleans tables.
And finally, I think you’ll adore Chiqui’s Oyster and Artichoke soup. I
think the best way to characterize it is by calling it a “Modern Creole” recipe
that evolved over the last forty years or so. It’s a delightful,
delicious and very sophisticated dish.
From Poppy Tooker
CHICKEN
SAUCE PIQUANTE
INGREDIENTS
a whole chicken (cut into 6-8 pieces)
flour for dusting
1 cup oil for frying
hot sauce and cayenne
1 onion, chopped
1 large bell pepper, chopped
3 stalks celery, chopped
1 cup flour
3 cloves garlic, minced
6 jalapeno peppers (seeded and minced)
1 - 2 lb. can tomatoes
3 bay leaves
3 T thyme
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
salt, cayenne and hot sauce
1 bunch green onions, sliced
1/4 cup chopped parsley
Marinate the chicken pieces in hot sauce and cayenne. Toss lightly in flour.
Heat oil in a skillet and pan fry the chicken until browned. Remove the chicken
from the pan and reserve and pour off approximately half of the grease. Add the
1/2 cup of flour and make a dark roux. Add the onions and brown, then add the
celery and bell pepper. Add the remainder of the ingredients (except the green
onions and parsley,) and return the chicken to the pan. Simmer until chicken
is fork tender. Add the green onions and parsley and simmer 5 more minutes, then
serve over rice.
Yield 6 - 8 portions.
SEAFOOD JAMBALAYA
Frank Brigtsen – Brigtsen’s Restaurant
Yield: 16 servings as a side dish Cooking
time: 1 hour, 15 minutes
CHEF’S NOTES: The word jambalaya is derived from the French word for
ham, jambon. Although ham is excellent for jambalaya, the main ingredient
in most Louisiana jambalayas is andouille, a spicy smoked pork sausage. In
this recipe, we substitute fresh tuna and shrimp for the meat, and the “seasoning” vegetables
(onion, celery, and bell pepper) are added in two stages. This is done to intensify
the flavor. Also, in a recipe such as this where you are adding several herbs
and spices at the same time, it is helpful to pre-measure them before you start
cooking.
INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons pomace olive oil or vegetable oil
2 cups finely diced bell peppers (red, yellow, & green), π-inch pieces
4 cups finely diced celery, π-inch pieces
6 cups finely diced yellow onion, π-inch pieces
2 bay leaves
3 cups diced fresh tuna, ∏-inch pieces
2 tablespoons salt
∏ teaspoon ground black pepper
π teaspoon ground white pepper
π teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
2 teaspoons dried whole-leaf sweet basil
2 teaspoons dried whole-leaf oregano
1 teaspoon dried whole-leaf thyme
2 tablespoons minced fresh garlic
1 tablespoon very finely chopped fresh jalapeno pepper
1 cup canned whole tomatoes, pureed with their juice
2 cups peeled fresh Louisiana shrimp (save heads and shells for stock)
5 π cups shrimp stock
3 cups Louisiana popcorn rice (or basmati rice)
2 cups thinly sliced green onions (green part only)
Seafood Jambalaya, Page 2
1) Heat the oil in a large pot over high
heat. Add 1∏ cup of the bell peppers, 3 cups of the celery, 4 cups of
the onions, and the bay leaves. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables
become very dark brown (caramelized), 12-15 minutes.
2) Add the tuna, salt, black pepper, white
pepper, cayenne, basil, oregano, thyme, garlic, and jalapeno. Cook, stirring
occasionally, for 3-4 minutes.
3) Add the remaining bell peppers, celery,
and onions. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions become soft and clear,
3-4 minutes.
4) Add the tomatoes. Cook, stirring occasionally,
for 5 minutes.
5) Add the shrimp and cook, stirring occasionally,
until the shrimp turn pink, 2-3 minutes.
6) Add the shrimp stock and bring the mixture
to a boil. Stir in the raw rice. Reduce heat to very low, cover and cook until
the rice is done, 20-25 minutes.
7) Stir in the green onions and serve immediately.
From Chiqui Collier
OYSTER ARTICHOKE SOUP
1 stick of unsalted butter
4 heaping tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 green onions, thinly sliced (white and green parts)
1 leek, thinly sliced and well rinsed (white part only)
2 ribs celery, minced
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
2 cans artichoke hearts, drained, rinsed and coarsely chopped
4-6 cups rich chicken stock (preferably homemade)
Cayenne and white peppers to taste
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon Lea & Perrins
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1 large bay leaf
Crystal hot sauce to taste
2 pints fresh oysters and their liquid
2 cups heavy cream
2 tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Melt butter in a 4-6 quart saucepan. Stir in flour and cook over a medium
low heat to form a blonde roux. Cook for about 5-7 minutes just until
the flour starts to take on a light brown color similar to a light caramel. Stir
in the green onions, leeks, celery and minced garlic and cook just until the
vegetables soften; about 3 minutes. Gradually add the stock and the reserved
oyster water, stirring constantly. Add all the remaining ingredients
with the exception of the oysters, cream and parsley.
Simmer the soup covered on low heat for about 30 minutes. About 10 minutes
before serving, stir in the heavy cream and the parsley and simmer for 10 more
minutes. Taste and correct seasoning.
To Serve: Sauté the reserved oysters in a pan with 4 tablespoons
unsalted butter just until the edges of the oysters curl. Immediately
place a few oysters in each serving bowl and top with the heated soup.
Yields: 8 servings
|
Click here to view our current class schedule.